That dudes page is full of kooky rants and minor misinformation and misconceptions, but ok fine, leaving that aside. Then - as to the "recalibrated" thermostats. Mine is now straight up around low 90's (which is what an 88C stat gives you really) You can code that same as M62 stock (so an 88C would read a bit low) but I have custom coded mine for 88C also, I have a thread on that somewhere. That one you CAN recalibrate w cluster coding. ![]() The actual coolant gauge is the one on the far right. So that's the thing that needs fixing and it isn't fixed in the cluster coding it is fixed in the DME Tune - Terraphantm made some OEM modded binaries people could flash as long as you weren't tuned or otherwise special. So for reasons I forget the cluster gets coolant temp instead and for some scaling reason I guess it pins the gauge. The M62TU DME (as opposed to the S62 DME) doesn't send the oil temp over CAN (without mods that is and if it is not a 4.6 or Alpina etc). And it displays a temp that's sent over the CAN bus. That oil temp gauge is what youre talking about right? The one centered below the tach? That's oil temp not coolant. So the cluster stuff is entirely different. It gets really hot in the summer here in LA. And yeah, I know what you mean, I'm not looking to run super low temps, just a little bit lower. Some later cars - seems like the 2002's specifically - seem to have DME software versions that will throw an SES occaisionally w/ the 88C because the DME is smart enough to notice "Hey! WTF! This engine is running too cool!" but seems like that's mainly just a subset of later cars.Thanks for the info and insight. Some later cars - seems like the 2002's specifically - seem to have DME software versions that will throw an SES occaisionally w/ the 88C because the DME is smart enough to notice "Hey! WTF! This engine is running too cool!" but seems like that's mainly just a subset of later cars. Single power resistor, zip tie it under the beauty cover, easy. ![]() The 88C is closest to plug and play for sure, but you need to make a resistor to fake the DME into not throwing a code because the 88C has no plug on it and the DME wants to see "oh there's a thermostat connected". There's even an argument that 88C is real cold - ie something like 'san's 95C or a 92C are the kind of thing that most BMW M motors get from the factory. ![]() 80C is frickkin cold prob not a good idea. so you really want to shoot for a sweet spot which is something around the 90's Celsius (the 88C T-stat means the engine runs generally in the low/mid 90's most of the time). But engines run w/ less friction at higher temps which means less wear and more performance. Too cold is not good, even though a lotta knuckledraggers think "you can't have cold enough" and "high temps are only for emissions!".
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